The sea alongside Fukaura City, Aomori Prefecture, resembled a blue glass tabletop as we leisurely paddled our kayaks toward where the ocean touched a cloud-layered sky. Our guide pointed out Mt. Shirakami, part of Japan’s Shirakami Sanchi Natural World Heritage Site, protecting the world’s largest virgin beech forest in East Asia. The heritage site is just part of a larger mountainous area stretching across Akita and Aomori prefectures. It is an enticing area for outdoor sports lovers.

The coast of Aomori is a beautiful area for kayaking. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

Attractions in Aomori – Gangara cave

However, this day, we explored nearby attractions along Aomori’s southwestern coast, including eye-catching cliffs and islands born of ancient volcanic ash flows. I especially wanted to enter the locally famous Gangara Cave, which is accessible by kayaks only.

We paddled northward parallel to the Fukaura coast for about half a mile. Then, glided between numerous islets projecting from the windless, waveless sea. Finally, trailing our guide, we came into a small bay. He led us toward an island of craggy rock, looking like a hard scone, dried grey under the hot sun.

Gangara Cave’s entrance was a yawning cliff crack that quickly swallowed our guide’s orange and yellow kayak. We followed into a small but awe-inspiring world fifty yards deep into the island.

Top: The mouth of Gangara Cave is accessible by kayak only. Bottom: The cave was incredible, even on our paddle out. Photos: Greg Goodmacher

After our eyes adjusted to the darkness, we noticed hundreds, if not thousands, of bats roosting and flittering along the cave roof ten yards about ten yards above. Sunbeams at the cave entrance transformed the sea surface into a brilliant aquamarine color when we turned around. Blowfish stared up at us as we stared down at them. For moments, we savored the natural quietness and exotic nature of the cave before paddling outward.

Returning, we passed a solitary fisherman casting his line between close islets. I asked if he had caught any fish. He replied that he hadn’t, but he had caught a great view.

This fisherman was fishing for spectacular views. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

Shirakami Sanchi World Heritage Site – Anmon Valley Route

The following day, we drove to the Shirakami Sanchi World Heritage Site to explore a spectacular riverine trail within an eight-thousand-year-old beech forest.

The Anmon Valley Route winds through a narrow gorge that curves around steep fern-covered cliffs. The highlights are three cascading waterfalls ranging from 26 to 42 yards high. The third waterfall is closed to the general public to protect wildlife and human lives. The trail turns extra steep, wet, and slippery after the second waterfall. However, forest officials grant access to visitors hiking with eco-guides.

The Anmon Valley Route winds through an 8000-year-old beech tree forest! Photo: Greg Goodmacher

Reaching the second waterfall took slightly more than an hour of hiking/strolling. We often stopped to contemplate and photograph green moss carpeting felled trees, light filtering through trees clinging to cliffs, and golden leaves drifting slowly onto streams.

I heard the plunging waters before the waterfall became visible. My wife and I stood silently, absorbed in the sparkling cascades. Then, impulsively, I waded into the pool at the waterfall’s base and submerged myself in the chilling and invigorating mountain water. Afterward, we sat on solar-heated rocks, ate sandwiches, and listened to the waterfall sing.

Left: We stood contemplating the beautiful river. Right: We swam underneath the chilling and invigorating waterfall. Photos: Greg Goodmacher

Shirakami Sanchi World Heritage Site – Conservation Center

We later dropped into the Shirakami Sanchi World Heritage Conservation Center to learn more about this spectacular region of ecological importance.

First, a friendly worker explained that the park was divided into two sections. The buffer zone, including the waterfall walk, is for the general public to enjoy. The protected core is only accessible to visitors who apply for permission and trek with local eco-guides. Then, he showed me a personal video he had taken of a healthy black bear strolling downriver while he was walking upriver in the core section. Both large mammals kept a respectful distance away from each other.

I spotted frogs, herons, eagles, hawks, squirrels, monkeys, river fish, Japanese raccoon dogs, martens, and more within a few days.

Many areas in northern Japan, including the Anmon River Valley, include rivers surrounded by lush greenery. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

The relatively undisturbed ancient forests provide habitats for many creatures and filter the melted snows. Northern Japan receives more snow than most areas of the world. As a result, rivers, streams, and waterfalls surge with pristine water surrounded by lush greenery. Maps show numerous brooks and streams where thirsty hikers can taste the mountains’ offerings.

The remote, steep-sided mountains and valleys provide kayakers, rafters, canoers, and river trekkers with many choices. Also, an amphibious bus drives around Tsugaru Dam and swims across Tsugaru Lake in Nishimeya, Aomori, a rustic village that borders the World Heritage Site.

The remote, steep-sided mountains of Shirakami Sanchi provide kayakers, rafters, canoers, and river trekkers with many options. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

We paddled upstream in the clear waters of Shirakami Sanchi. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

Canoeing Near Tsugaru Lake

Since my hotel was in Nishimeya Village, my wife and I chose a canoe trip through a section of nearby Tsugaru Shirakami Lake. We were the only canoers I saw on the vast lake. First, the guide from A’ Grove Canoeing and Rafting checked that we could safely manage our Canadian canoe. Then, he led us through a strange forest of still-standing leafless dead trees in the lake created when the dam was built.

However, the slopes leading down into the lake were lush and green, and, surprisingly, the air smelled like cookies. Our guide explained that we had detected the smell of Cercidiphyllum japonicum, which is often called the caramel tree.

We were immersed in green on the lake, offering an incredible view. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

The lake surface reflected the greenery. Monkeys, our guide said, often come to the lake to feed on nuts and leaves. Unfortunately, though, we did not see monkeys until we were back on land. Instead, a great white heron glided gracefully by us and rested on a nearby tree. We also saw numerous small schools of tiny fish when we slid up the transparent shallow water of a small stream.

Ascending the tributary brought us to a warm sandy beach. Our guide surprised us by unfolding camping chairs and covering a small table with decorative fabric. Then, he served us locally produced apple pie and hot apple juice. Aomori is the apple basket of Japan. After our delicious snack, we headed back the way that we had come. Though the lake water was flowing slowly, time in the Shirakami Sanchi had flown much too fast.

Top: A great white heron rested on a nearby tree, watching canoers. Bottom: We saw one of the locals when arriving back on land. Photo: Greg Goodmacher

Trip Summary

Tour: Sea Kayaking By Aone Shirakami Twelve Lakes
Tour: Canoeing By A’Grove Canoeing and Rafting
Accommodation: Green Park Mori-No-Izumi
To Get There: Hayabusa Shinkansen (E5) bullet train from Tokyo to Shin Aomori Station from Tokyo Station. Flights to Aomori from New Chitosei Airport in Hokkaido and Tokyo are also available. Take a local train to Hirosaki. Then, board a 50-minute bus from the Hirosaki Bus Terminal. Due to the remoteness of the region, driving a rental car is recommended.

Have you been to the world heritage site at Shirakami Sanchi and participated in any water sports? Share your insights in the comments below.

It was an early afternoon in late October as we launched our two canoes from a landing onto a winding lake in an Upper Michigan wilderness area. Temperatures were around 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and winds were 5 to 10 mph with gusts up to 20 mph. The water was freezing. Although the four of us were experienced paddlers, I was anxious about canoeing on such cold and wavy waters in the Upper Peninsula of Michigan this time of year for fear of hypothermia from capsizing.

With canoes loaded for a 3-day adventure, we paddled a quarter mile through a calm channel in the Upper Peninsula. Then, as we continued, the open water of Crooked Lake became choppy and turbulent. The wind picked up significantly. We had difficulty finding the unmarked portage to High Lake, where we planned to camp that night.

The Clarks paddling on High Lake. Photo: Jim Joque

My friends, Tom and Mary Jo Clark were in their Wenonah Minnesota II, a typical performance touring canoe in this area. My other friend, Tom Link, and I were in my Wenonah Spirit II, an incredibly versatile touring canoe when we lost sight of the Clarks.

The wind was causing waves that somewhat blocked our view, and we couldn’t see around protruding landmasses. Tom and I landed and located the portage, but then pushed off again in search of the Clarks. Fortunately, we found them. They landed at another location, thinking that might be the portage.

The portage to High Lake, our campsite location, is only 22 rods (363 feet). We made three trips over the portage with our canoes and gear -still a challenge for four adventurers in their mid to late 60s.

About the Sylvania Wilderness Area

Our fall canoe adventure took place in the 18,327-acre Sylvania Wilderness and Recreation Area, located within the Ottawa National Forest in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Sylvania is part of the National Wilderness Preservation System. In addition to a campground near Sylvania’s entrance, there are 50 designated backcountry campsites located near several of the 34 named lakes in this charming chain-of-lakes wilderness.

Over the past 20 years, I have led college students on 6-day wilderness canoe adventures in Sylvania, paddling 13 lakes, and making 18 portages each trip. I’ve also made several canoeing trips there with friends. Plus, I have camped in Sylvania with student groups on fall and winter backpacking trips along some of the 25 miles of hiking trails in the area.

Wildlife abounds, and scenic woodland vistas seem to manifest at every turn. The U.S. Forest Service writes, “The old-growth forests and pristine lakes in the region provide habitat for a wide range of animal and plant life, including rare orchids, bald eagles, loons and osprey.”

All Sylvania lakes require non-motorized water travel, except for Crooked Lake that allows minimal powered boats. And, a part of Crooked Lake resembles a river. The upper and lower open areas of the lake are connected by a mile-long and winding waterway, giving the sensation of being on a wilderness river.

Read More: Winter, Spring, Summer, or Fall – Sylvania Has It All

Map compliments of USDA-Forest Service, Eastern Region, Ottawa National Forest

Back at High Lake

When we put into High Lake, the water was reasonably calm because towering hemlocks and pines sheltered the lake from the wind. The water’s clarity was stunning, as we could see 20 or more feet into a deep crystal-blue lake.

We paddled to Bobcat campsite, one of two sites on the lake. Then, we unloaded our canoes and set up camp. In addition to our tents, we set up a tarp over the cooking area since rain and snow mix was predicted for the night. With a 2-burner stove set in place and a campfire warming in the fire ring, we had an ideal camp setting. In my journal, I wrote, “We started a happy hour with brandy and whiskey, followed by a beef stew supper.” It couldn’t get any better than that.

Tom, Tom, Jim, and Mary Jo at Happy Hour in Sylvania. Photo: Jim Joque

Following clean-up, hanging our food in a distant tree, and sitting around the campfire, we crawled in our tents to temperatures that night of about 35 degrees F. Then, I heard the pitter-patter of rain, sleet, and then the snow hit my tent on and off throughout the night.

We woke to temperatures in the mid-30s and an overcast sky. Following breakfast, the group decided not to take our chances paddling in the cold. Instead, we stayed at our campsite for a second night. Later, we took a challenging hike from High Like to the portage between Mountain Lake and Crooked Lake, where we originally intended to travel by canoe. It was a day for exploration.

Sylvania signposts at landing. Photo: Jim Joque

Back at camp later that day, after gathering wood for our campfire and eating supper, the four of us enjoyed fun conversation around a warm fire before sliding into our sleeping bags. That night temperatures dropped to 25 degrees F.

Come morning, we woke to a clear blue sky and ate breakfast. We then packed for our paddle back to the portage and the landing. Crooked Lake greeted us with rippling water, sunshine, and temps in the low 40’s. It was a delight.

However, the water was still icy cold. We made the long stretch back to our landing without capsizing, and without getting wet or cold. It was a relief to have survived a cold-weather challenge while enjoying an autumn canoe-camping adventure.

Read More: Canoe Camping: Plan, Pack & Paddle

Preparing that beef stew supper. Photo: Jim Joque

Recommendations For Cold Weather Canoeing and Camping

Only attempt cold weather canoeing and camping if you have prior experience and skill with canoeing and camping. Please don’t make it your first adventure. But if you have the skills and previous experience, consider the following:

• • Be prepared by having quality paddling gear and camping gear.

• • Check the weather for temperature, wind, and potential precipitation or storms.

• • Leave an itinerary with family members of trip details, including contact information, locations, dates, and times of arrival and return.

• • Know self-rescue techniques, first aid, and how to treat hypothermia. As a starting point, view the canoeing safety videos from the American Canoe Association.

• • Keep a low center of gravity when packing your canoe.

• • Always wear your life preserver when canoeing.

• • Paddle close to shore in inclement weather.

• • Try keeping dry and warm at all times, and dress in clothing that dries quickly.

• • Count your blessings when you return safely.

What have been your experiences with cold water canoeing? Have you gone canoeing in the Sylvania Wilderness Area in the upper peninsula of Michigan? Please share your stories with us in the comments below!

Jim and Tom packed to paddle onto Crooked Lake. Photo: Jim Joque

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With summer activities now in reach, the opportunities to get out and explore are out there. One area well worth discovering is the Hanford Reach in the eastern half of Washington State. Hanford Reach abounds with sights and activities along the river and throughout the region.

The gorgeous Columbia River, Hanford Reach. Photo: Flickr / fly

About Hanford Reach

The Reach is the last free-flowing section of the Columbia River, almost 51 miles (82 km) long. Named after a sizeable northward curve in the river’s otherwise southerly flow, it meanders through a former nuclear production facility dating from WWII – the Hanford Site. Apart from small sections between the U.S. and Canadian border and part of F.D. Roosevelt Lake at Grand Coulee, the river is non-tidal.

The Reach was once a historic Indian fishing ground with numerous camps like Wy-Yow-Na and Tah-Koot along its southern shoreline, near present-day Locke Island. Here, evidence of ancient habitation is abundant, with remnants of obsidian arrowheads, scraping, and cutting tools.

Hanford Reach National Monument

Near the original Hanford Site security zone, lies the Hanford Reach National Monument. The monument was established by Presidential decree in 2000, making it one of the State’s more recent tourist sites. While spanning 57,000 acres, the Reach is free and open from sunrise to sunset, with some variations during hunting season.

Hanford Reach National Monument is one of just two National Monuments administered by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and forms part of the Columbia River plateau. As with much of eastern Washington State, the stunning but stark shrub-steppe landscape is harsh and very dry.

Yet despite its lack of rainfall – 5 to 10 inches (13-25 cm) per year – the area is a contrast of giant bluffs and delicate flowers. Also, it is home to a diverse variety of animal and rare plant life defying the wind, heat, and drought.

Large herds of elk are often seen, their numbers varying seasonally and peaking in winter. Coyotes, great blue herons, bald eagles, white pelicans, badgers, bobcats, and cougars are also found as well as the most abundant – varying species of mice. The Hanford Reach, due to its non-polluted waters, is also home to significant shoals of carp, trout, and bass.

Museum and Interpretive Center at Hanford Reach. Photo: Shutterstock / Tada Images

Priest Rapids Dam

Priest Rapids Dam sits upstream and in the opposite direction lies the McNary Dam, which shuts off the lower parts of the Snake River – the Columbia’s largest tributary. Spanning Yakima County and the southwest edge of Grant County, Priest Rapids Dam sits 24 miles (38.6 km) south of Vantage and 47 miles (75.6 km) northeast of Richlands, close to State Route 243.

Initially, a fast-flowing, narrow section of the Columbia River, construction of the dam in 1956 flooded the Priest Rapids. Photo opportunities are many, and surprisingly despite this vast concrete invasion, the area between McNary Dam downstream and Priest Rapids Dam provides one of the best salmon spawning grounds in the Northwest.

Fishing

Speaking of salmon, Hanford Reach is home to a spectacular fishery. Steelhead salmon are one of the most valued and prized fish in the Columbia River system. During their return migration from the Pacific, you can often yield catches of over 20 pounds (9 kg). Just remember to release all steelhead unharmed.

In addition to steelhead, you may also catch trophy bass, fall chinook salmon (found in the thousands during migration), and white sturgeon throughout the Columbia.  So, grab your motorboat, kayak, raft, or canoe and head out for some prized catches in Hanford Reach. Launch your boat from the undeveloped area at Ringold Fish Hatchery or through Parking Lot 7 at Wahluke.

Winter fishing on the Columbia River at Hanford Reach. Photo: Flickr / David Lee

Kayaking, Canoeing, SUP

Aside from fishing, Hanford Reach offers a lovely stretch of a waterway for cruising in a kayak or canoe. The free-flowing waters provide the opportunity for a fun, relaxing ride along with wildlife viewing along the river.

However, since there are minimal facilities along the river and no camping available, you’ll want to prepare for the trip. Always wear a personal flotation device (PFD) and observe closed areas along Hanford Reach. Since weather fluctuates, remember to prepare for elements by wearing sunscreen, prepping for wind, and inquiring about conditions.

A few common routes are the White Bluffs Boat Ramp to Parking Area 7, Parking Area 7 to Ringold Fish Hatchery, and Priest Rapids Dam to the Vernita Bridge. Each route is 8 miles. Be aware of changing river conditions and currents as you portage or anchor your craft since water Priest Rapids Dam controls the levels. To canoe or kayak the full-length of Hanford Reach, consider a two day-trips on the rive.

For those without a craft, you can rent a kayak or stand-up paddleboard at Columbia Kayak Adventures. Rentals are available at the end of Lee Blvd in Howard Amon Park in Richland. Typically tours are also available but now suspended due to COVID-19. Keep up to date via their Facebook on any changes to rentals, tours, and their retail shop. The retail store is currently closed due to COVID-19, as well.

Read More: Prep Your Kids For Canoeing, You Will Thank Me Later

The gorgeous surrounding area of Hanford Reach, making for excellent river activities. Photo: Flickr / David Lee

Events Near Hanford Reach

The community of Richland, along with Kennewick and Pasco, forms part of southern Washington State’s ‘Tri-Cities’ region. One of the significant events in the area is the Tri City’s Water Follies hydroplane racing at Kennewick’s Columbia Park East. Pulling huge crowds, it has become one of the Pacific Northwest’s biggest weekend festivals.

The event takes place annually each July. In 2020, however, the event has been postponed due to COVID-19. According to the Water Follies, they hope to run the event later this year. 

Typically, the event features civilian and military air displays, games, music as well as the hydroplanes. Also, broadcast on radio, national and local television to over 3 million people, and via the internet, the Kennewick Races have received numerous prestigious awards.

Go Visit

The Hanford Reach area is very much an outdoor enthusiast’s paradise as visitors currently have access to over 57,000 acres of wildlife-dependent recreation. While hunters can track down the occasional elk and trophy mule deer, anglers can pursue salmon, steelhead, white sturgeon, bass, and many other sportfish. Spring produces colorful wildflowers, and abundant wildlife provides year-round observation and photo opportunities.

Furthermore, the river provides ample recreation opportunities, including kayaking, canoeing, and stand-up paddleboarding. So, whether you’re interested in sightseeing, hunting, history, wildlife, fishing, or just enjoying an escape from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, the Hanford Reach National Monument and its surroundings have something quite definite to offer you.

See more information and rules and regulations for Hanford Reach at the U.S Fish & Wildlife Service.

Would you visit Hanford Reach and the surrounding area? What are your favorite activities in the area? Let us know in the comments below!

A version of this article originally appeared in Snowshoe Magazine, April 2012

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With recreational paddling booming, it’s no surprise the water of Ontario’s Bruce Peninsula, the finger of land that along with Manitoulin Island, separates Lake Huron from Georgian Bay, is attracting kayakers from all over. There’s something about the deep, cold waters of the bay hemmed in by the eternally-brooding cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment that is irresistibly enticing.

That allure is often confounded, though, by the savage personality of the Georgian Bay waters. Sometimes it’s simply not safe to take a kayak, even a sea kayak, onto the open waters. It’s a dilemma for the paddler. It’s like having an itch that you can’t quite scratch. But, that’s where Lion’s Head, a village 30 minutes south of Bruce Peninsula National Park, enters the picture.

Remote Paddling, Tamer Conditions

About a three-hour drive from Toronto, Lion’s Head is surprisingly remote and isolated. The two largest municipalities in the general region are Owen Sound, with a population of about 21,000 people, and Collingwood, which is only a little smaller.

However, northwest winds prevail on the peninsula, which geographically resembles Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde. The Lake Huron “west coast” is gentler and sandier, although it can still be treacherous. The awesome east shore, where Lion’s Head is located, has the Niagara Escarpment as its spine. Then, from there, the peninsula slopes steadily to the east, reducing itself in elevation and impressiveness.

In most winds, the enormous square block of the Lion’s Head promontory provides shelter to the south, while White Bluff provides a windbreak to the northwest. That helps to keep the waters around the small village much calmer than surrounding areas of Georgian Bay – although calmer is a relative term to be sure.

During a recent visit, I launched my recreational kayak from the municipal park and beach in Lion’s Head and headed toward the south shore of the village.

The village takes its name from the escarpment’s supposed resemblance to the head and forequarters of a reclining lion, although I’ve never been able to see it.

Let me admit upfront that I’m a recreational kayaker pure and simple. I don’t have a fancy craft, I don’t use a skirt, and my technique might politely be called awkward. None of that matters much to me, though. I just love being out on the water.

Under a steady wind from the northwest, the waters were choppy but still easily navigable.

The spectacular scenery near Lion’s Head. Photo: TS Giilck

Spectacular Scenery

In my opinion, Lion’s Head also features some of the most incredible sections of the ancient ridge, with 150-metre cliffs plunging straight into Georgian Bay along the promontory. The combination makes for some of the most spectacular paddling you will find in Ontario and the Bruce Peninsula.

Soon I was paddling almost in the shadow of the escarpment cliffs, which grew more magnificent as I went, dwarfing the boat as I drifted less than 100 feet from shore. I dare anyone not to feel very small in the presence of the ancient dolostone that loomed overhead.

As usual for Georgian Bay, the water clarity was indeed impressive. It was possible to look down into nearly 30 metres of water and still see the bottom of the bay.

The sights grew steadily more striking as I paddled the shoreline.  A short distance ahead was a “sea stack” along the coastline. This formation was quite unlike the “flowerpots” found at other spots along the peninsula, such as Cape Chin and Flowerpot Island. The Lion’s Head stack is a real sea stack, a massive spike projecting into the air.

The cliff face along this section is particularly impressive and reached its highest points. Hiking is also readily at hand, with the venerable Bruce Trail running along the ridge.

But, I headed back to the village at this point, which was less than an hour away, feeling the grip of the current and wind, testifying to the unpredictable nature of Georgian Bay.

Would you or have you gone paddling on the Bruce Peninsula and in Georgian Bay? Let us know in the comments below!

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Story originally appeared in Snowshoe Magazine, June 2012

Reflections of canoers on Lake Towada Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Aomori prefecture jumps to the forefront of my recommendations when visitors request advice for canoeing, river exploring, camping, snowshoe trekking, and skiing in Japan.

Canoe tours in a lake surrounded by volcanic peaks, snowshoeing treks in protected forests, and long strolls through colorful ravines pull me to Aomori again and again. Its tantalizing traditional regional dishes and hot springs add exotic experiences for visitors to the far north of Japan’s main island. Additionally, few foreign tourists know about Aomori—for now.

Smiling canoe guide Photo by Koji Nishikawa

But ask a Japanese about the beauty of Northern Honshu, and, likely, they won’t stop talking about Lake Towada and Oriase Gorge. I became similarly entranced after canoeing on Lake Towada and strolling the Oriase Gorge trails in winter and fall.

Lake Towada 

Lake Towada, the third deepest in Japan, is a caldera lake created by volcanic eruptions at an elevation of 400 meters (1,312 feet). Except for a small town along one edge, the lake has escaped development. Government restrictions protect the environment because it is part of Towada-Hachimantai National Park.

View of Lake Towada Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Canoeing, snowshoe, and hiking tours are the specialties of Towadako Guidehouse Kai. Ecotour guides Murakami, Ota, and Koda continuously smile as they explain the ecology of their home: the lake, the gorge, and nearby mountains. Going with them on an ecotour is like traveling with friends who are both deeply knowledgeable and nuts about nature.

Canoeing in Lake Towada last winter was an almost indescribable pleasure. Skimming through sheets of floating ice and discovering icicles dripping from the roots of trees along the lakeshore were amazing first-time experiences for me. Furthermore, we were probably the only people on the surface of the 61.1  km² (24 square miles) lake.

Winter on Lake Towada Photo by Greg Goodmacher

Oirase Gorge

The beauty of Oriase Gorge is also outstanding in fall and winter.

Oirase Gorge In Fall

Autumn also had its unique joys. Ducks suddenly appear from the deep water and disappear again as they search for fish. Mountain and lakeshore vegetation burn with fall colors. The joys of exercising in nature by rowing against the wind and then returning with the help of breezes. Finally, observing the sun slowly sink over the tip of a mountain range while the moon rose.

Each year, the snows on nearby peaks melt and run into Lake Towada, which spills into the mouth of Oirase Gorge. Far back in geologic history, a section of the lake collapsed, and escaping water carved the 14 kilometer-long (8.6 miles) ravine.

Oirase Gorge in Fall Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Oirase Gorge is one of Aomori’s most celebrated autumn attractions. Hikers, picnickers, photographers, poets, and others find inspiration or relaxation along the nine-kilometer (5.5 miles) one-way path that follows the main river. Some visitors ride bicycles along a nearby mountain road.

Oirase Gorge in Autumn Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Vibrant green moss, pools of blue water, and white swirling streams compete in a beauty contest with trees whose green leaves are turning into a thousand shades of fiery fall red, orange, and yellow colors. Waves of cascading waters plunge over a dozen waterfalls into tiny pools and creeks. These gurgle their way into the more powerful river that leaps and bounds with rhythmic splashes over large rocks and fallen trees.

To experience Oirase Gorge at its most sublime and avoid crowds, arrive early in the morning on a weekday during the peak season of fall foliage.

Frozen waterfall in Oirase Gorge Photo by Greg Goodmacher

Oirase Gorge In Winter

Winter turns the gorge into a world of sparkling icicles, powdery snow, and white trees. The murmurs of the stream and the flutter of snowflakes landing on your shoulders may be the only sounds. Below-freezing temperatures turn some of the waterfalls into nature-crafted ice sculptures as tall as buildings.

Read More: Winter Canoeing, Trekking, & Hot Springs In Aomori Japan

Where to Stay At Lake Towada and Oirase Gorge

There is a range of accommodations to choose from at Lake Towada in fall or winter. For example, you may decide to camp or stay at a mid-range or luxurious accommodation.

CampSite In Fall

The Utarube Campsite on the shore of Lake Towada has tent sites and small lodges during fall. The campsite is very popular, but it is closed in winter. Many guests enjoy the barbecues and sunrise canoe trips that Towada Guidehouse Kai manages.

Twilight on Lake Towada Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Luxurious Accommodation: Oirase Keiryu Hotel

Those preferring Northern Japan’s take on “Washoku,” the Japanese cuisine that UNESCO designated as an Intangible Cultural Heritage, can choose more luxurious accommodations

Between November and April, many nearby hotels close because of the winter conditions. However, the luxurious Oirase Keiryu Hotel stays open in winter and is highly recommended. I have never stayed there, but I have seen the gorgeous woods and rivers nearby.

It also boasts three outdoor communal hot springs. The most elegant rooms have private hot spring baths. Furthermore, shuttle buses connect the hotel with the Shin Aomori Train Station.

Jigokunuma, a natural thermally heated swamp near Sukayu Onsen Photo by Shintaro Takada

Mid-Range Accommodation: Sukayu Onsen Hotel

My recommendation for those with cars is to drive one hour from Lake Towada to Sukayu Onsen. This drive provides another opportunity to view Oirase Gorge.

Sukayu Onsen is a mid-range hotel that locals built around a hot spring. The Hakkoda mountain range and a realm of active volcanoes surround Sukayu. Additionally, the Hakkoda Ski Area is acclaimed for hiking, backcountry skiing, and snowshoe trekking.

Intrepid skiers and snowshoers ride the Hakkoda ropeway gondola to Mt. Tamoyachidake (elevation: 1324 meters or 4347 feet). They then return by descending the backside of the mountain through the woods to Sukayu. The ropeway is open in all seasons.

Jigokunuma, resplendent with fall foliage Photo by Shintaro Takada

One night at Sukayu is a mindblowing experience for many foreigners. One of Japan’s largest mixed-sex baths is in Sukayu Onsen Hotel.

Famous communal mixed-sex bath at Sukayu Onsen Photograph courtesy of Sukayu Onsen

Meals often include locally foraged herbs, mushrooms and sea and river fish most North Americans have never eaten.

Visit Lake Towada and Oirase Gorge This Fall and Winter

Aomori has more exhilarating hiking trails, streams, waterfalls, wild hot springs, ponds, and lakes than are possible to explore in one hundred vacations. That is why this outdoor-sports-loving travel writer plans to return again and again to Aomori.

Read More: Japan’s Rivers & Hot Springs

Collection of Aomori Mushrooms Photo by Koji Nishikawa

Howler Monkey Relaxing

Loud as foghorns, the braying of howler monkeys erupted from the jungle to the right of our pontoon boat. Our eyes whipped across the verdant rainforest jungle. Something moved in the thick verdant wall of trees and vines along the riverbank. Five yards above the dark green river, half a dozen primates were stripping leaves from branches. A baby monkey stretched thin arms and legs around its mother as she leaped between trees. I was experiencing Costa Rica’s Pura Vida.

Pontoon Tour

“Pure life” is the literal translation of Pura Vida, which in Costa Rica is a standard greeting, an informal national slogan, and a reminder to enjoy tranquility and nature. My wife and I had chosen to visit Costa Rica because we had read that it is a premier location for ecotourism and nature tourism. Would the country meet my high expectations?

Spotting Wildlife Along The Rivers

Costa Rica delivers. Chances of seeing wildlife are high, especially along its vivacious waterways. Only the blind won’t spot wildlife, but they would still thrill to the caiman’s throaty growl echoing across a watercourse, feel the invigorating moist fogs wafting through cloud forests, and smell the rain falling through the jungle.

Caiman

Cormorant Drying Wings

According to the United Nations Development Program, Costa Rica, smaller than West Virginia, harbors 4% of the world’s biodiversity. Citizens and government officials across Costa Rica are promoting ecotourism and nature tourism. That is what attracted my wife and me to Alajuela Province, where we chose river tours.

Balsa River Rafting Trip

Costa Rica Descents’ tour bus picked us up in the morning. We chatted with Argentines, Mexicans, Germans, Swiss, Costa Ricans, and others. Arriving at a muddy plain, all of us walked through puddles and a stream until we came to a mighty river of churning white water. Lime-green rubber rafts and tanned, burly guides waited for us on big rocks next to the Balsa River.

Adrenaline Rush

Getting Drenched

Our no-nonsense Costa Rican guide first warned us about the dangers of smashing into rocks and drowning. Second, he checked that we were correctly wearing our helmets and life vests. Then, he instructed us how to paddle and how to respond to various commands.

Look Forward and Paddle

Finally, we pushed the raft into the water, jumped aboard, and paddled. The river moved our raft like a drifting leaf. The gentle stretch disappeared in an instant. The muscular river lifted, twisted, and bounced us over and around midstream rocks. Our raft spun in a circle. Water flew into our faces. We jammed our feet into foot braces. Over the roar of the river, our guide barked commands, and we obeyed. As a result, we safely passed through the gauntlet of the first falls.

Costa Rica teems with biomass, and the rivers are the veins of all that life. The river pulsed. It shot us downward. Then, we cruised slowly enough to look at the green forest canopies, to listen to our guide’s tales, and to jump into the river and drift with the raft.

Snack Time

Spider Monkey

Halfway through the journey, all the rafts pulled onto a bank. Guides turned over one raft. It became a table. We feasted on locally grown juicy pineapples and sweet watermelon. Large brown cows ambled over. I joyfully handed watermelon rinds to the bold cows and tossed others to the shy ones.

Then, we returned to the water and more adrenaline-pumping river exploration. But now we more confident. Too soon, the river made a broad curve. I saw the bus. The bus driver waved to us. Before boarding, I took a last look around. On the opposite bank, a thin waterfall plunged into the river. Wild banana plants laden with fruit bent downward. I heard a hawk screech and saw it circle above the canopy.

The End of the Raft Tour

Cacao Pod

On the return journey, we enjoyed a buffet lunch on the grounds of an organic farm managed by Costa Rica Descents. Touring the grounds, we saw football-like cacao pods growing from cacao trees, fields of sugar plants, and plots of medicinal herbs. Our guide taught us how local farmers produce sugar, and he served us shots of fiery home-fermented tequila-like Costa Rican alcohol.

Cano Negro Pontoon Boat Tour

Slowly Cruising Through the Jungle

In contrast to river rafting in Costa Rica, a pontoon tour moves at a slow pace, providing more to hear, see, smell, and feel the environment. To allow guests better opportunities to see nature, the boat captain moved forward, backed up, zigzagged, and brought the boat to the river’s edge. Our guide was a professional naturalist who quickly identified wildlife and told us where to look.

From our boat, we cruised near howler monkeys, spider monkeys, and white-faced capuchin. We also saw a caiman, iguanas, sloths, tarantulas, basilisks, vultures, hawks, toucan, and more.

Basilisk

Early that morning, Canoa Adventura’s van picked us up and drove north toward the border of Nicaragua. The Cano Negro is a wildlife refuge of wetlands that harbor endangered plant and animal species. The tour is a full-day trip from the town of La Fortuna. The route passes through small villages and large swaths of parkland.

Vultures eating roadkill in the middle of one road forced the bus to wait. That was okay with everyone. I have never seen more bird species than I did along the route to Canon Negro. Lunch at a quiet riverside restaurant was pleasant. Multicolored butterflies flew around red and orange flowers growing near outdoor tables. We returned to our hotel in the evening feeling utterly satisfied with the entire day.

What to Do

Vultures

Visitors can select from a broad range of relaxing or stimulating river, lake, and sea activities almost anywhere in Costa Rica. Besides rafting and pontoon tours, horseback riding, zip-lining, canoeing, canyoning, and other exciting adventures await you. For those who love the slow life, visits to coffee and chocolate farms might be suitable activities. Don’t forget soaking in the numerous hot springs of Costa Rica.

Where to Stay

The View from our Room

An abundance of choices ranging from cheap guesthouses to luxury hotels makes deciding where to stay a fantastic conundrum.

We booked rooms at the tiny (only seven rooms) Roca Negra Inn, a hotel with a bird sanctuary. Lying in a hammock on the front balcony, we peered through ferns, fruit-filled banana trees, and colorful hanging orchids to the cloudy top of cone-shaped volcanic Mt. Arenal. Hummingbirds, toucan, and dozens of other birds and multitudes of butterflies chattered, flew or fed on fruit and flowers near us. Located a few kilometers from the quaint town of La Fortuna, we enjoyed peaceful solitude at the inn while being near restaurants, galleries, cafes, and tour agencies.

Finding and Booking Tours

Beautiful Blue Bird Eyes

Probably all hotels in La Fortuna assist guests with booking tours. Arriving in La Fortuna in early August, the start of the low season, we bargained at tour agencies and received substantial discounts. Prices vary depending upon the season.

Deciding When to Go

We arrived in early August at the start of the slow season. Tourist numbers plunge because the rainy season starts in August. Early August rains, though, are not so heavy. Our guides told us that long lines and noisy crowds disturb animals and detract from the natural beauty during peak season. The beginning of the low season turned out to be a wonderful time to enjoy Costa Rica’s Pura Vida.

Mighty Rivers rise from humble beginnings, often hundreds of miles from their final, stellar display of power as they rumble into a junction downstream. The Tennessee River’s founding ranks as one of the more interesting in river history and recreation.

Under the railroad trestle (left) flows the Holston River. Top Right, here comes the French Broad. To the lower right, two become one in a marriage of water creating the Tennessee River. Burkhart Enterprises, a thriving river port since the late 1940s, docks barges in the photo. See this point from their vantage below

The Confluence and Flow of the Tennessee River

A dozen miles above the vibrant East Tennessee city of Knoxville, two powerful rivers—the Holston and the French Broad—join in a confluence of waters launching the Tennessee River’s 652-mile navigable journey. Included in the flow route lay portions of Alabama until the Tennessee River folds northward creating a wandering “U” shape. Then, near Paducah, Kentucky, the Tennessee River merges with the Ohio River as its largest and equal tributary. However, only for a short 46 miles until the Ohio River converts to a tributary itself for the Mississippi River in Cairo, Illinois.

The Tennessee River from beginning to end. Note the confluence of Holston and French Broad Rivers at the Knoxville “dot” offering hundreds of miles of river fun

When Knoxville reigned as king of the region circa 1790, the river was popularly known as the Cherokee, named as such by the native Indian population. In fact, their influence ultimately yields the name Tennessee from the word “Tanasi,” a Cherokee village. A distinguished monument overlooks the now submerged village, whose name roughly translates to “big bend,” 12 miles south of the town of Vonore.

The French Broad

Burkhart Enterprises’ view of the confluence. Note trestle also in the top photo

The French Broad River begins near the small town of Rosman, North Carolina. It flows independently for 213 miles before mixing with the Holston. From Rosman, it carries one of the heavier rainfalls in the United States north through Asheville, North Carolina, before tracking northwest across the Great Smoky Mountains, one of the river’s major water sources.

Great Smoky Mountains National Park is one of the best areas for enjoying the bounty of the French Broad River and the many smaller streams that feed it. Gatlinburg is a notably wonderful base for exploring these waterways with a plethora of outfitters running whitewater rafting, kayaking, and paddleboarding adventure trips. Grab a bag of iconic Gatlinburg taffy then hop on the Pigeon River to experience class III and IV rapids that finish their flow into the French Broad above the Douglas Dam.

The Clinch River adding its own glory to the Tennessee downstream near Oak Ridge

The Pigeon River

Pigeon River, named after the Passenger Pigeon, offers a lesson about that bird’s journey to extinction, something River Sports enthusiasts must keep in mind. While once one of the largest populations on the globe (four billion estimated just in 1700s North America alone), massive hunting for its cheap meat and habitat loss killed the species. Currently, there remain a number of species globally facing the same demise, for instance, the majestic Monarch Butterfly.

The Holston River

Western North Carolina Alliance (WNCA) enjoy a trip down-stream from the French Broad’s Headwaters

The Holston River travels 274 miles to reach the confluence with twin, the French Broad, beginning in Bland County, Virginia. Uniquely, the Holston consists of three forks: the longest and more dominant North Fork flows from Sharon Springs. The “twins” Middle and South Forks converge NE of Bristol, a city straddling the state-lines of Virginia and Tennessee. These combined forks, known now as “South,” later turn NW to greet the North Fork at Kingsport, Tennessee.

Then the three forks combo take off as one for 136 miles SW toward Knoxville. Bays Mountains lays on the south side of the flow nearly all the way. Take time from the canoe, kayak, or paddleboard trip to stop in Kingsport’s Bays Mountain Park. There, among deer and other animals, sits a wolf preserve where one without any moonshine stimulant, howls with the wolves.

River Activities Near Holston

LegacyParks.org works to promote public use of the Holston and French Broad Rivers

There are winding creeks, lakes, and water galore to explore in the area. Trout fishing with some lunkers (this from knowledgeable sources) remains a favorite in the Holston. Plenty of activity plays in the keeping of the rivers clean.

Panther Creek State Park, as just one suggestion of a park to visit, offers plenty of camping spots and activities to engage time in and out of the water. Sport kayaking, canoeing, and fishing (in and out of canoes and kayaks, too) enjoy the dam’s reservoir. There are also multiple hikes reaching high grounds that once were enjoyed by the Cherokee Indians circa 1785.

Blue Hole offers a refreshing pool to visit . . . and take a dip!

Also note Blue Hole Falls on Holston Mountain, so named because of the pool under the falls with a deep blue tint. Located along Mill Creek, the falls are not far from South Holston Lake.

The name Holston River (and the mountain also) derived from Stephen Holstein. He settled in the northerly part of the river in the mid-1700s. Keep an eye out on the Holston Mountain for Holston High Point where the FAA maintains an aircraft beacon at 4,260 feet.

Cherokee Dam, named after the Native American tribe of East Tennessee, marks a key feature on the Holston waterway for river sport craft of all kinds in Grainger County and Jefferson County. Nothing better as Grainger grows the country’s best tomatoes from lush farmland. Use them for your favorite BLT blend. Or just eat one like an orange.

Other Activities in Holston

Better still, be at their world-famous Tomato Festival in late July; a perfect time once you find parking to prove your tomato-throwing skills.

Grainger County Tomato Festival reigns as the king of anything tomato. Join the famous tomato wars on the last Saturday of July. Oh . . . be brave; wear a white shirt.

Most do not know the area opposed secession by the state in Civil War days. President Lincoln’s railroad bridge-burning strategy, including one at nearby Strawberry Plains, was a plan to combat Confederates that Tennessee joined in 1861. However, it seemed to lead to more recruits for both sides of that dastardly conflict. Not far away one can enjoy Lincoln Memorial University’s Abraham Lincoln exhibit hall with important artifacts of his life, like a large copy of the wire announcing his death.

The telegram of President Abraham Lincoln’s death 7:22 a.m., April 15, 1865. Photo taken at the Lincoln Memorial University Museum, Harrogate, Tennessee.

Sadly, that day is now lost among one of the most difficult days of the year for most Americans: April 15, Tax Day (see photo). That day needs changing to say, April 30 or any other day for that matter. Lincoln’s day-of-death should not be lost among a scramble for deductions and paperwork. April 15 needs recognition as a day of honor.

Overall: A River Sport Dreamland

The Tennessee River has North Carolina and Virginia to thank for its origin . . . and the tremendous variety of water sports the Holston River and the French Broad River offer.

Just think: nearly 500 miles from these two rivers, combine with the 652 miles traveled by the Tennessee River to the mouth of the Ohio River. The many tributaries and contributing rivers such as the Little Tennessee and Tellico near Knoxville, make this region a river sport dreamland.

In May, an annual paddleboard race starts in Knoxville on the Tennessee River and races downstream for multiple distances. No longer are such events just the providence of hidden streams and small rivers. The explosion of self-propelled river sports incorporates all good waterways. Just remember Lincoln’s adage, though: “It is best not to swap horses while crossing the river.” Kayaks, canoes and other watercraft, too.

Phillip@ultrasuperior.com

British Columbia offers amazing, affordable, accessible adventures for river rats, and famed B.C. waterways like the Thompson, Fraser and Chilliwack Rivers are no secret to outdoor enthusiasts. Rafting is one of the few water sports where you’ll actually enjoy paddling hard for short intervals, soaked to the bone inside a dingy-like raft with a few other crazy people.  Toss in an overnight stay at a haunted bed and breakfast like The Teague House in Yale (Sasquatch Country), one of British Columbia’s oldest houses built in 1867, and you’re in for an unforgettable B.C. experience.

Most rapids in this area are considered class 3.5 to 4.0. Aside from being a thrill ride, there are so many other reasons you need to add a rafting trip to your bucket list. For starters, the scenery is epic. Regardless of which river you choose to paddle, expect to find yourself in awe of the beauty of B.C. But be aware that if you spend too long gawking at the views instead of paddling, your “funny” rafting guide may just decide to toss you in for a quick swim. Rafting is a true team activity that requires everyone’s participation for success. It’s a great team building activity and you’re sure to make some new friends after a day fighting rapids called “Jaws” and “Hell’s Gate” together.

Companies like Fraser River Raft Expeditions have been pumping people safely through whitewater for over 20 years. There’s a reason these rafting outfitters are still in business: they all have a loyal crew of crazy guide characters, all of whom are dedicated to the rivers and an outdoors lifestyle.  Educated, skilled, witty guides make the trips more memorable and fun.

Rafting outfitters like Hyak, Canadian Outback Adventures and Kumsheen are also fairly close to major cities like Vancouver and all offer fun day trips into the mountains. Expect to be entertained and well fed on a full-day trip, but don’t forget to bring essentials for yourself like a water bottle, sunscreen and waterproof camera. Dry bags are usually provided to keep valuables safe. A pit stop for a picnic lunch along the river’s edge is part of most trips offering a great chance to grab some photos and chat with your team while you refuel. The minimum age for rafting in these parts is 12 years old, so leave the youngsters at home for this one so they (and you) aren’t up the raging river without a paddle.

Nothing beats the summer heat better than a icy, refreshing shot of whitewater in the face. Cross this adventure off your summer bucket list and make B.C. your next whitewater destination.

By: Stephanie Florian @PlayOutdoorsCA

Follow Stephanie and Fraser River Rafting Adventures through some B.C. rapids:

For thousands of years, humans have gone out on the sea alone in a kayak and experienced what might be the ultimate soul journey on the water. The Orr’s and Bailey Islands are part of the Harpswell Island chain located off the central coast of Maine.

Although they are but two of many islands in the area featuring a myriad of bays, coves, and wildlife that can be explored by kayak, Orr’s and Bailey stand out as some of the most magical spots to experience the joys of paddling.

Orr’s and Bailey Islands in Central Maine. Photo: Sherry Hanson

The Paddling Season

Kayaking season at Orr’s and Bailey Islands runs roughly from late May through September. Though, some enthusiasts extend their time on the water even later in the season.

Air temperatures in late May are between 43 and 65 degrees F (6 to 18 C). In October, the range is 37 to 59 degrees (3 to 15 C), while summer temperatures vary from 52 to 79 degrees (11 to 26 C). However, these are just averages, as plenty of days in July and August can sizzle in the 90s (30s C).

Outside of temperature, there are many places to put in on these islands, from quiet bays and coves to open ocean. Coves offer protected waters, while the larger bays will get choppy quickly if there’s even a slight breeze. For open-ocean outings, it’s essential to stay updated on weather and tide changes, especially in early spring or late fall.

Route 24 on Bailey Island. Photo: Sherry Hanson

Where to Go Paddling On Orr’s & Bailey Island

There are a few paddling routes available in this beautiful area. Here are a few to get you started.

Mackerel Cove to Merriconeag Sound

One of my favorite routes begins by launching from the small sandy beach area at Mackerel Cove on Bailey Island. Then, head south among the lobster boats and pleasure craft out around the end of the peninsula. Finish by paddling north to Merriconeag Sound.

There will be swells during the transition out of the cove to head into the Sound. But otherwise, this route is pretty smooth. You’ll cruise among brightly painted buoys that mark where the lobster traps lie.

Plus, if you plan accordingly, you can pull in at a variety of places for a taste of the day’s fresh catch, or try a local brew. Cook’s Lobster or the Salt Cod Café, located adjacent to H2 Kayaking Outfitters, offers excellent options. You could also paddle through the Bailey Island Bridge–a unique, crib-stone bridge that connects Orr’s and Bailey Islands–and tie up at the float behind Morse’s Cribstone Grill, which puts you back on Bailey Island.

Read More: Maine Lobster House Run By Kayak

Yum! Morse’s Cribstone Grill. Photo: Sherry Hanson

Land’s End To Merriconeag Sound 

For a longer route to the Sound, you can launch your kayak from Bailey Island Beach at the tip of Bailey Island, below the end of route 24. Then, paddle south and around to the west side of the island. Finally, head north to go over into Merriconeag Sound.

If you put in here, make sure to visit the lobstermen’s statue on the ocean side of Land’s End Gift Shop. The figure is a bigger-than-life tribute to many folks in this region who make a living on the water.

On a good day with calm seas, you might choose to take a picnic lunch and paddle out to Eagle Island, home of the late Arctic explorer Admiral Robert E. Peary, instead of paddling into the Sound. On Eagle Island, there is a boat landing, and, in season, you can tour the explorer’s historic residence. This route is open water kayaking all the way.

Bailey Island Bridge To Mackerel Cove Or Land’s End

To change it up, you can also put in beside the Bailey Island Bridge adjacent to H2 Outfitters. From here, you can head south down Merriconeag Sound, past Graveyard, and Pott’s Points. Continue south to the entrance to Mackerel Cove or Land’s End.

H2 Kayaking Outfitters, which provides kayak rental, courses, and tours. Photo: Sherry Hanson

Bailey Island Bridge To Reed Cove

Paddlers putting in beside the Bailey Island Bridge on Orr’s Island can choose to turn north and head up the Sound, instead of going south on the open water route. The Sound is a great place to enjoy the scenery, take some photos and enjoy a relaxing float in the coves.

Bailey Island Bridge To Casco Bay

Another option when putting in at the crib-stone bridge is to go under the bridge towards the east side of the islands and head south for the open waters of Casco Bay. While paddling on the east side of Bailey and Orr’s Islands, the water is rougher, and paddlers need to pay close attention to the weather and tide information before heading out.

On the east side of the islands, though, views along the rocky coast are unforgettable. You can paddle towards Land’s End on your way to Casco Bay. Or head north to Lowell Cove on the south side of Orr’s Island after passing beneath the Bailey Island Bridge. Even if you stay within sight of the coast, it’s still all open water paddling.

Bailey Island crib-stone bridge, an excellent point to start your kayaking adventure. Photo: Sherry Hanson

Enjoy Paddling On Maine’s Orr’s & Bailey Island

When I am out here in open seas in summer, my spray skirt is running with water, and I am often sweating under my PFD. But, the pure athleticism of paddling combined with the screams of gulls and the rocking of fishing boats at their moorings brings incredible satisfaction and peace.

As I watch the rocks along the coast, the occasional seal will pop up to look at me, and the sleek, dark cormorants often perch on ledges to dry their wings. When a fish jumps or seal surfaces, I know I am sharing a special moment with these water creatures that have come to meet me.

What is your favorite spot to kayak near Orr’s and Bailey Island? Have you tried any of the outings mentioned here? Let us know in the comments below.

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Article first published on Sept 14, 2015, and updated with formatting changes and additional links on May 1, 2020

Imagine days of paddling on a narrow, lazy river. You snake through marshes and pine forests, passing by large boulders and tiny beaches. The land is full of herons and beavers, prints of a muskrat, or raccoon that reveal their passing. Each bend in the river takes you further into the wilderness. You reach a “development,” a campsite, or in its most advanced form, a lean-to. One might think that such a place is only in the Western United States or Canada. But, in fact, this magical land, the east branch of the Oswegatchie River, is in New York’s Adirondack Park.

The Oswegatchie provides tranquility and a sense of solitude. Photo: Tim Moody

Getting To The Oswegatchie River

Accessing the Oswegatchie is a small adventure unto itself. South of the tiny tourist town of Cranberry Lake lies a hamlet called Wanakena, which from the highway appears to mostly consist of forest, picnic tables, hiking trails, and The Ranger School.

But, off of route 3 is a dirt road that leads back away from the highway for miles, deep into the woods, intersecting snowmobile trails. Abruptly, the road reaches the river and what appears to be a few seasonal homes. One of the camps is accessed by a footbridge that traverses the water. To the right, you’ll find the end of the road and a public parking area at The Inlet, a grassy area with river access. While The Inlet has an outhouse and camping is permitted, an hour of paddling on the river leads to spots that are far more secluded, wild, and peaceful.

One riverside beach on the Oswegatchie. Photo: Tim Moody

An Adventure on the Oswegatchie

One hot, August afternoon, my partner and I found ourselves at The Inlet, preparing to launch our canoe. The put-in has space to launch multiple boats simultaneously, which worked to our advantage. We happened to arrive as a large group was in the lengthy process of loading their canoes. However, we soon left them behind, and within 5 minutes, it seemed as though we had the river to ourselves.

We paddled upstream along bends and curves and through tall grasses. Small animals made paths to access the river, leaving holes in the meadows. In a few places, the water was low over the rocks. In those spots, I was glad to have a “beater boat” that I didn’t mind getting scratched up.

It turns out that the trip would be nearly impossible to undertake without scratching up a boat, especially this time of year. Motorized boats are not allowed on this section of the river. With the shallow water and frequent beaver obstructions, they would be completely impractical, regulations aside.

Inspiration around every bend. Photo: Tim Moody

Navigating The Curves, Bends, And Beaver Dams

Less than an hour upstream from The Inlet, we came to our first campsite. Under the pine trees that shaded the riverbank, we enjoyed a lunch break while gazing out on the water. The cool river, dark with tannins, was a refreshing spot for an after-lunch swim.

Then, back in the boat, we paddled upstream through many curves and bends as the river gradually narrowed. Though we passed a few other paddlers, the river never felt crowded. As we rounded the next turn, we had the place to ourselves again less than a minute later.

After one bend in the river, we discovered that we had arrived at High Rock. The Oswegatchie quietly flowed just next to a large boulder. The top of the rock boasts a campsite, set back in the woods. While High Rock would be an exceptional spot to spend the night, it was still early in the day, so we continued.

Heading downstream past a boulder. Photo: Tim Moody

Our Adirondacks Paddler’s Map- North listed Griffin Rapids as our next landmark. Aside from being listed on the map–an easy Class I section that didn’t require any hard paddling–the rapids were hardly noteworthy. The main difficulty of the day wasn’t even on the map.

Alternatively, the central problem of the day occurred before reaching our campsite at Buck Brook Lean-To. Here, I had to exit the canoe in thigh-high water and pull it over a beaver dam that we weren’t able to paddle up.

Thus, a good pair of water shoes and the ability to comfortably enter and exit the canoe in shallow water are a must for anyone undertaking this trip. The sheer number of beaver dams, especially further up the river, requires paddlers to get in and out of their boats often.

Read More: First-Timer’s Guide To Canoeing

One of many beaver dams that tested our paddling skills (and patience). Photo: Tim Moody

Camping At Buck Brook Lean-To

Buck Brook is one of several lean-tos along this section of water. From a bank along the outer edge of a river bend, the shaded lean-to looks out on the water.  While the campsites along the Oswegatchie are numerous, they are spread out enough (except for those at High Falls) that each one feels completely private.

Mosquitoes descended upon us as we pulled out our boat. So we opted to pitch a tent rather than get eaten by the swarms around us. The shelter had an expansive view of Buck Brook and the marshland that surrounds it.

But, bears inhabit this section of the Oswegatchie River, at least according to our guidebook. So, as usual, we stored our food in a well-hung bear bag. Enjoying a fire in the pit by the lean-to, we had the site to ourselves. It was dark, and our eyes were focused on the glow of the fire when we heard a significant splashing noise in the water. We heard it once again and then no more.

Read More: Canoe Camping: Plan, Pack, Paddle

The view from Buck Brook Lean-To affords beauty with a sense of privacy. Photo: Tim Moody

The Journey To High Falls

The next morning, we ate breakfast with the early light glistening off of the water before getting underway. Paddling was more complicated than the previous afternoon. The river narrowed, less water flowed, and there were more frequent beaver dams. Some of the dams we were able to paddle up, while we had to haul the boat over others.

One of the campsites had some large river rocks and fast-moving water that required some spur of the moment route planning. Further upriver where the Five Ponds Trail crosses the water, we portaged around some rapids that we couldn’t muster the strength to paddle up.

Then, at another section slightly further upriver, we tracked the canoe up a very shallow part with swift water. The miles passed slower with all the obstacles, and we considered turning back several times, but ultimately opted to continue.

By early afternoon we had finally made it to High Falls, our final destination. While the river continues above the falls, a simple portage away, such a trip was outside the scope of our one-night trek. Contrary to its name, High Falls isn’t a particularly tall waterfall. However, it is an attractive feature and exciting to watch. Multiple flows diverge, and coverage at the multi-tiered falls. 

Approaching High Falls. Photo: Tim Moody

After contemplating the waterfall for a few minutes, we were glad not to have turned back earlier in the day. The mist and breeze off of High Falls kept the bugs away, making it the best lunch spot on the river.

While visiting the waterfall is a worthwhile trip, camping near the falls may not be beneficial for those looking for solitude. With five campsites and a lean-to, High Falls is popular and a hub of activity. But, the advantage of staying near the falls, is these campsites have easy access to numerous hiking trails that explore the nearby ponds and mountain.

If you want to venture a short way downstream, though, there is a quiet, private campsite that would be my choice if I were to camp in the area.

After our lunch at High Falls, we prepared to head back to The Inlet. While we had another 13 miles to paddle on the return trip, the second half would be downstream. Being able to paddle over most of the beaver dams rather than having to haul the canoe over them saved a lot of time and hassle. I was also able to find lines down the two sections of rapids that we hadn’t been able to paddle up. But, the faster pace meant that sometimes I had to tell my partner to stop paddling so that I could steer us around the sharp bends.

During the last hour and a half on the river, we paddled hard to try to get off the water before a distant thunderstorm came too close. By the time we arrived back at the car, we were tired and sore. Although our trip was more rushed than I would have liked, I was still left with a sense of awe from the serenity and wildness of the place. Anytime I feel that sense fading, I know where I can go to find it again.

The beach at Buck Brook Lean-To is a refuge. Photo: Tim Moody

If You Go

Maps & Guides: The Adirondack Paddler’s Map North shows portages and campsites in the area. Pair it with the Adirondack Paddler’s Guide for more detailed descriptions.

Put-In: For this experience, we put in at the Inlet, near Wanakena. Find inspiration through 65 other flatwater adventures featured in Adirondack Paddling.

Classes & Water Levels: American Whitewater provides regularly updated water levels of various sections of the Oswegatchie River, along with the whitewater class of each section.

Camping: The Five Ponds Wilderness Area presents endless backcountry camping opportunities.  Or, you can set up camp at the Buck Brook Lean-To and near High Falls. There are numerous primitive campsites along the Oswegatchie River to choose on your journey.

Would you paddle the Oswegatchie River? What are some of your favorite areas? Share with us in the comments below!

Article updated June 2, 2020

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